Inspection
Find the Right Method for You
You don’t need to be a mechanic to spot major red flags. I always recommend starting from the bottom up—because what’s underneath often tells the real story.
Undercarriage – The Foundation
This is where most buyers skip—and where most big problems hide.
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Check for Major Rust in these areas:
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Rocker panels (the area under the doors)
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Frame rails
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Subframe (front and rear)
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Floor panels and seams near the corners
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⚠️ Why it matters:
Any holes, flaking, or soft spots in these areas can make the car unsafe and nearly impossible to certify. Ontario safety inspections don’t allow structural rust-through or weakened frames.
🛠️ Pro Tip: Tap on the rusted areas lightly with a key or screwdriver handle. If it crumbles or sounds hollow, it’s a red flag.
Undercarriage – Leaks
Look underneath the vehicle for active leaks.
It’s normal for older vehicles to have a bit of oil residue or grime around the engine and drivetrain—especially from old gaskets or minor seeps.
But if you see:
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Drips forming
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Wet spots on components
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Or a small puddle under the car
…it’s likely a more serious issue that needs attention.
⚠️ Why:
Leaks can lead to low fluid levels, overheating, or system failure. They may also cause a car to fail a safety inspection—especially if it's leaking brake fluid, coolant, or power steering fluid.
🛠️ Pro Tip:
If you’re not sure whether it’s just AC condensation or a fluid leak, touch it with your fingers.
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Water will feel like water (cool and thin)
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Coolant feels slightly oily or slick
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Oil or brake fluid will feel thicker and greasy
Tires and Brakes
Start by doing a full walkaround and inspect each tire individually. Tires tell you a lot about how the vehicle was maintained—and what expenses are coming next.
✅ What to Check on the Tires:
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Are all four tires the same brand and model?
Mismatched tires can be a sign of poor maintenance or cheap repairs. It may also affect handling, traction, and braking distance. -
Tread Depth:
Use a tread depth gauge or the simple toonie trick:
If the silver edge disappears into the tread, you’re still good.Recommended Minimums:
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Summer tires: at least 3 mm
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Winter tires: at least 4 mm
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All-season: aim for at least 3–4 mm year-round
🔧 If the tread is below that, you’ll need new tires soon.
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Cracks and Dry Rot:
Look between the tread blocks and along the sidewalls for fine cracks—this means the rubber is aging and could fail unexpectedly. -
Uneven Wear:
Feathering, inner or outer edge wear, or bald spots often mean bad alignment, worn suspension parts, or lack of tire rotation. -
Tire Age (DOT Code):
Look for the DOT stamp on the sidewall—the last 4 digits are the week and year of manufacture (e.g., 3419 = week 34 of 2019).
⚠️ Tires older than 6 years should be replaced—even if the tread looks fine—because the rubber hardens and loses grip.
🛑 Quick Brake Check (No Tools Needed)
In many vehicles, you can see the brake rotors through the wheels.
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Make sure the brakes are cool to the touch (never inspect hot rotors).
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Swipe your finger across the rotor surface (carefully).
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Feel any deep grooves or lips? That’s a sign the rotors are worn or warped.
