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Inspection

Find the Right Method for You

You don’t need to be a mechanic to spot major red flags. I always recommend starting from the bottom up—because what’s underneath often tells the real story.

Undercarriage – The Foundation

This is where most buyers skip—and where most big problems hide.

  • Check for Major Rust in these areas:

    • Rocker panels (the area under the doors)

    • Frame rails

    • Subframe (front and rear)

    • Floor panels and seams near the corners

⚠️ Why it matters:
Any holes, flaking, or soft spots in these areas can make the car unsafe and nearly impossible to certify. Ontario safety inspections don’t allow structural rust-through or weakened frames.

🛠️ Pro Tip: Tap on the rusted areas lightly with a key or screwdriver handle. If it crumbles or sounds hollow, it’s a red flag.

Undercarriage – Leaks

Look underneath the vehicle for active leaks.

It’s normal for older vehicles to have a bit of oil residue or grime around the engine and drivetrain—especially from old gaskets or minor seeps.
But if you see:

  • Drips forming

  • Wet spots on components

  • Or a small puddle under the car

…it’s likely a more serious issue that needs attention.

⚠️ Why:
Leaks can lead to low fluid levels, overheating, or system failure. They may also cause a car to fail a safety inspection—especially if it's leaking brake fluid, coolant, or power steering fluid.

🛠️ Pro Tip:
If you’re not sure whether it’s just AC condensation or a fluid leak, touch it with your fingers.

  • Water will feel like water (cool and thin)

  • Coolant feels slightly oily or slick

  • Oil or brake fluid will feel thicker and greasy

Tires and Brakes

Start by doing a full walkaround and inspect each tire individually. Tires tell you a lot about how the vehicle was maintained—and what expenses are coming next.

✅ What to Check on the Tires:

  • Are all four tires the same brand and model?
    Mismatched tires can be a sign of poor maintenance or cheap repairs. It may also affect handling, traction, and braking distance.

  • Tread Depth:
    Use a tread depth gauge or the simple toonie trick:
    If the silver edge disappears into the tread, you’re still good.

    Recommended Minimums:

    • Summer tires: at least 3 mm

    • Winter tires: at least 4 mm

    • All-season: aim for at least 3–4 mm year-round

    🔧 If the tread is below that, you’ll need new tires soon.

  • Cracks and Dry Rot:
    Look between the tread blocks and along the sidewalls for fine cracks—this means the rubber is aging and could fail unexpectedly.

  • Uneven Wear:
    Feathering, inner or outer edge wear, or bald spots often mean bad alignment, worn suspension parts, or lack of tire rotation.

  • Tire Age (DOT Code):
    Look for the DOT stamp on the sidewall—the last 4 digits are the week and year of manufacture (e.g., 3419 = week 34 of 2019).
    ⚠️ Tires older than 6 years should be replaced—even if the tread looks fine—because the rubber hardens and loses grip.

🛑 Quick Brake Check (No Tools Needed)

In many vehicles, you can see the brake rotors through the wheels.

  • Make sure the brakes are cool to the touch (never inspect hot rotors).

  • Swipe your finger across the rotor surface (carefully).

  • Feel any deep grooves or lips? That’s a sign the rotors are worn or warped.

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